Eritrea
Eritrea's great surprise is Asmara, a UNESCO-listed capital of 1930s Italian modernism where espresso bars and cinemas still trade under their original signs, then drops more than 2,000 m down a spectacular escarpment road to Massawa's coral-stone old town and the reefs of the Dahlak islands. Travel is slow, permit-bound and cash-only, but almost never crowded.
Overview
Eritrea is a narrow country on the Red Sea with three distinct zones: the cool highland plateau around Asmara at over 2,300 m, the steep eastern escarpment, and the hot coastal plain running south towards the Danakil. Italian colonial rule (1890–1941) left Asmara with one of the world's most complete ensembles of modernist architecture, while Massawa preserves Ottoman and Egyptian-era coral-block buildings. A first trip usually spends several days in Asmara, then follows the switchback road down to Massawa for a boat trip to the Dahlak Archipelago, with excursions north to Keren's Monday market and south to the ancient site of Qohaito.
Tourism is minimal, so you will often share Asmara's cafés and cinemas only with locals taking the evening passeggiata along Harnet Avenue. Life is unhurried and courteous, costs are moderate, and hotel standards are dated. Bureaucracy shapes everything: permits are needed for travel outside Asmara, the internet is slow and patchy, and cash is the only reliable way to pay. It suits architecture lovers, Africa specialists and anyone happy to plan around rules. Most visitors are struck by how Italian daily life feels: macchiato at the bar, bicycles in the streets and pasta on almost every menu.
Map of Eritrea
Top 5 highlights
- 1Architecture
Asmara's modernist centre
Inscribed by UNESCO in 2017, central Asmara is a showcase of 1930s Italian design: the aircraft-shaped Fiat Tagliero service station, Cinema Impero on Harnet Avenue, and Art Deco bars and villas along jacaranda-shaded streets.
- 2History
Massawa Old Town
Coral-block merchant houses, Ottoman arches and the shell of the Imperial Palace on Taulud Island recall Massawa's centuries as a Red Sea trading port; many buildings still bear scars from the 1990 battle for the town.
- 3Nature
Dahlak Archipelago
Scattered off Massawa, these low desert islands offer reef snorkelling and diving with few other boats in sight, plus an Islamic-era necropolis with inscribed tombstones on Dahlak Kebir. Trips need permits and are arranged in Massawa.
- 4History
Asmara–Massawa Railway
The Italian-built narrow-gauge line, completed to Asmara in 1911, twists down the escarpment through tunnels and over viaducts. Restored by veteran railwaymen, it runs steam excursions, usually by advance charter, from Asmara towards Nefasit.
- 5History
Qohaito
On a high plateau near Adi Keyh, the ruins of an ancient town of the Aksumite era include temple columns, an ancient stone dam and tombs, with prehistoric rock art in nearby caves and sweeping views towards the lowlands.
Biggest cities
Asmara
The capital's grid of 1930s cinemas, petrol stations, bars and villas is a walkable open-air architecture museum; base yourself here for at least three days.
Keren
Eritrea's second city sits in a green bowl of hills; come on a Monday for the livestock market and visit the shrine of St Mary of Dearit inside a baobab.
Teseney
A hot lowland market town near the Sudanese border, home to Tigre, Kunama and Nara communities; it lies far off the usual circuit and few visitors make the long drive west.
There has been no national census since independence, so all figures are estimates. Mendefera is close to Teseney in size; Massawa, the Red Sea port most visitors see, is smaller, at around 40,000.
When to go to Eritrea
Best time: Nov–Feb.
Average climate in Asmara
Festivals & events
- JanTimket
Orthodox Epiphany, around 19 January, when priests carry the church tabots in colourful procession to water for blessing, accompanied by drumming and chanting crowds.
- MayIndependence Day
24 May celebrates liberation in 1991 with several days of street parties, concerts and parades along Harnet Avenue in Asmara; hotels fill up, so book early.
- SepMeskel
The Orthodox Finding of the True Cross, around 27 September, when huge bonfires are lit in Asmara's squares and church courtyards amid singing and dancing.
How much does Eritrea cost?
Estimates per person per day, excluding flights. Prices vary by season and city.
Food to try
Zigni with injera
Fiery stew of beef or lamb simmered with onions and berbere spice, scooped up with injera, the spongy, sour flatbread made from teff or sorghum.
Shiro
Silky stew of ground chickpeas or broad beans with berbere and garlic, served bubbling in a clay pot; the everyday staple, especially on Orthodox fasting days.
Ful
Breakfast of mashed fava beans topped with oil, chilli, onion, tomato and yoghurt, eaten with warm bread rolls; the classic morning order in Asmara cafés.
Getting around
Within Asmara, walk or flag down shared taxis that run fixed routes for a set fare; contract taxis cost more. Public buses link Asmara with Keren, Massawa and Mendefera cheaply but slowly and fill early, so many visitors hire a car with driver. Every trip outside the capital needs a travel permit naming your destinations, which is checked at road checkpoints. There are no ride-hailing apps.
Practical information
- Plugs & voltage
- CL230V — bring a UK-to-C/L adapter
- Emergency numbers
Source: FCDO “Getting help”
- Dialling code
- +291
- Time zone
- UTC+3 (standard time)
- Tap water
- Not safe — drink bottled or treated water
- Driving
- On the right
- Tipping
- Not traditionally expected, but rounding up or leaving 5–10% in restaurants, and tipping drivers and guides, is appreciated.
- Etiquette
- Greetings are long and warm; men often touch shoulders while shaking hands. Dress modestly, remove shoes in churches and mosques, and never photograph military sites, government buildings or bridges.
- Main airports
- Asmara International Airport (ASM), Asmara
Visas & entry for Eritrea
Shown for a British passport.
Visa required — apply before you go
You must have a visa to enter Eritrea. For information about visas, contact the Eritrean Embassy in the UK or the nearest Eritrean embassy. Check with your airline or travel company for the latest information.
From the UK government's FCDO entry requirements for British passport holders — read the full page for passport validity, permits and exceptions.
Health & vaccinations
- Recommended for most travellers
- Hepatitis ATetanusTyphoid
- Sometimes advised — depends on your trip, activities and health
- ChikungunyaDengueHepatitis BMeaslesMeningococcal diseaseRabiesTuberculosisYellow fever
- Yellow fever certificate
- A yellow fever certificate is only required if you arrive from (or transit through) a country with yellow fever risk — not if you fly direct from the UK.
- Malaria
- High risk of malaria
- There is a high risk of malaria in Eritrea below 2,200m: antimalarial tablets recommended.
- There is no risk of malaria in Asmara or in areas above 2,200m.
Source: TravelHealthPro (National Travel Health Network and Centre), checked 21 October 2026. This is a summary, not medical advice.
Public holidays in Eritrea
The next 12 months. Banks, offices and some sights may close, and transport and hotels get busy around these dates.
| Fri 1 Jan 2027 | New Year's Day |
| Thu 7 Jan 2027 | Orthodox Christmas |
| Tue 19 Jan 2027 | Epiphany |
| Mon 8 Mar 2027 | Women's Day |
| Tue 9 Mar 2027 | Eid al-Fitr (date may shift) |
| Fri 30 Apr 2027 | Good Friday |
| Sat 1 May 2027 | International Workers' Day |
| Sun 2 May 2027 | Orthodox Easter |
| Sun 16 May 2027 | Eid al-Adha (date may shift) |
| Mon 24 May 2027 | Independence Day |
| Sun 20 Jun 2027 | Martyrs' Day |
| Sat 14 Aug 2027 | Prophet's Birthday (date may shift) |
| Wed 1 Sep 2027 | Revolution Day |
| Sun 12 Sep 2027 | Ethiopian New Year |
| Tue 28 Sep 2027 | Finding of the True Cross |
National holidays only. Dates based on lunar calendars can move by a day or two depending on official announcements.
Useful phrases in Tigrinya
| English | Tigrinya | Say it |
|---|---|---|
| Hello | ሰላም | se-LAHM |
| Thank you | የቐንየለይ | ye-ken-ye-LEY |
| Please | በጃኻ | be-JA-kha |
| Excuse me | ይቕሬታ | yik-REH-ta |
| How much is this? | እዚ ብኽንደይ እዩ? | EE-zee bi-KEN-dey EE-yu |
Know before you go
- Apply for travel permits at the Ministry of Tourism in Asmara soon after arriving; they list specific destinations and dates and can take a day or more to issue.
- Bring all the money you need in cash (euros or US dollars), change it only at official exchange offices and keep receipts; foreign cards and ATMs essentially don't work.
- Expect to be largely offline: mobile data is scarce and internet cafés slow, so download maps, guides and booking confirmations before you arrive.
Eritrea travel FAQs
When is the best time to visit Eritrea?
The best time to visit Eritrea is generally Nov–Feb. Peak months are January, February, November and December. Average highs in Asmara range from 22°C to 26°C across the year.
How much does a trip to Eritrea cost per day?
Roughly £40 a day on a tight budget, £90 mid-range and £180+ for comfortable travel, per person including accommodation, food and local transport. Flights are extra.
What currency is used in Eritrea?
Eritrean nakfa (ERN).
What plug type does Eritrea use?
Type C and L sockets at 230V. UK visitors need a travel adapter — UK Type G plugs will not fit.
Which side of the road do they drive on in Eritrea?
Traffic drives on the right in Eritrea, unlike the UK.
Is tap water safe to drink in Eritrea?
Not safe — drink bottled or treated water.
Do I need a visa for Eritrea?
For British passport holders, the FCDO says: You must have a visa to enter Eritrea. Entry rules change, so check the official FCDO entry requirements for Eritrea before you travel: https://www.gov.uk/foreign-travel-advice/eritrea/entry-requirements
What vaccinations do I need for Eritrea?
TravelHealthPro recommends Hepatitis A, Tetanus and Typhoid for most travellers, with Chikungunya, Dengue, Hepatitis B, Measles, Meningococcal disease and Rabies sometimes advised depending on your trip. Make sure routine UK vaccinations are up to date and see a travel health professional 6–8 weeks before you go.
